Visiting Israel for the First Time: Everything You Need to Know
Your first trip to Israel will be overwhelming, beautiful, confusing, and unforgettable — often all in the same hour. This practical guide covers everything from airport security to Shabbat logistics to bargaining in the shuk.
Prepare to Be Overwhelmed
Israel is the size of New Jersey. It contains more history per square mile than any place on earth. It has world-class beaches, ancient ruins, cutting-edge technology, markets that assault your senses, food that will ruin you for every other cuisine, and opinions — so many opinions — delivered at a volume and intensity that will leave you either exhilarated or exhausted.
Your first trip will be both. This guide is designed to help you navigate the practical stuff so you can focus on the profound stuff.
Before You Go
Passport and Entry
Most Western passport holders do not need a visa for tourist stays of up to 90 days. Israel no longer stamps passports (a policy adopted to prevent travelers from being denied entry to countries that don’t accept Israeli stamps). You’ll receive an entry card instead — keep it. You’ll need it at hotels and when departing.
Airport Security
Ben Gurion Airport (TLV), near Tel Aviv, has the most thorough airport security in the world.
Arriving: You’ll pass through passport control, which is generally smooth. You may be asked questions about the purpose of your visit. Answer honestly and briefly.
Departing: Arrive at least three hours before your flight. Security screening begins before you even enter the terminal. You will be questioned — sometimes briefly, sometimes at length. Questions may include: Did you pack your own bags? Did anyone give you anything to carry? Where did you stay? Why did you visit Israel? This is normal. Stay calm, be honest, be patient.
What to Pack
- Modest clothing for religious sites (shoulders and knees covered; women at the Western Wall need covered shoulders; men need a head covering — kippot are available at the entrance)
- Comfortable walking shoes — Jerusalem’s Old City is uneven stone; the desert requires sturdy footwear
- Sunscreen and hat — the sun is relentless, especially in the south
- Layers — Jerusalem can be 15 degrees cooler than Tel Aviv; desert nights are cold
- A portable charger — you’ll be taking a lot of photos
- An adapter — Israel uses Type H plugs (three-prong). Most European two-prong adapters work.
Getting Around
From the Airport
Ben Gurion Airport is located between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. Options:
- Sherut (shared minivan/taxi): Affordable, runs to both cities. You share with other passengers.
- Train: Fast and cheap to Tel Aviv (about 20 minutes). No direct train to Jerusalem’s city center as of this writing.
- Taxi: About 45 minutes to Tel Aviv, 50 minutes to Jerusalem. Agree on the price beforehand or insist on the meter.
Within the Country
- Buses: Egged and Dan run extensive bus networks. Reliable, cheap, and the primary public transit. Buy a Rav-Kav card (rechargeable transit card) at the airport or any transit station.
- Trains: Israel Rail connects major cities along the coast. The Jerusalem-Tel Aviv high-speed rail line runs through a tunnel. No trains on Shabbat.
- Car rental: Useful for the Galilee, Golan Heights, Negev, and Dead Sea. Israelis drive aggressively. Be prepared.
- Taxis: Use Gett (the Israeli ride-hailing app) for fair pricing. Always ask for the meter (moh-neh) or agree on a price before getting in.
Shabbat Transportation
This is the biggest practical challenge for tourists. From Friday afternoon to Saturday night:
- No buses (except in Haifa)
- No trains
- Some sherut (shared taxis) run on modified schedules
- Taxis and rental cars still work but may charge Shabbat surcharges
Plan ahead. If you need to get somewhere on Shabbat, arrange transportation in advance.
Must-See Sites by Region
Jerusalem (2-3 days minimum)
- The Old City: Western Wall (Kotel), Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Dome of the Rock/Al-Aqsa compound (Temple Mount — restrictions apply), Jewish Quarter, Via Dolorosa
- Yad Vashem: Israel’s Holocaust memorial museum. Allow 3-4 hours. Free admission. Emotionally devastating and essential.
- Israel Museum: Home to the Dead Sea Scrolls (Shrine of the Book) and a stunning model of Second Temple-era Jerusalem
- Mahane Yehuda Market (the Shuk): Go Thursday or Friday morning for the full experience. Eat everything.
- Mount of Olives: Panoramic view of the Old City. Jewish cemetery. Garden of Gethsemane.
Tel Aviv (2 days)
- Beaches: Gordon Beach, Frishman Beach — Mediterranean perfection
- Jaffa: Ancient port city, now artsy neighborhood. Great restaurants, flea market, views
- Carmel Market: Tel Aviv’s answer to Mahane Yehuda
- Bauhaus architecture: Tel Aviv has the world’s largest collection of Bauhaus buildings (the “White City”)
- Nightlife: Israel’s party capital. Things don’t get going until 11 PM.
The Dead Sea and Masada (1 day)
- Masada: The ancient fortress where Jewish zealots made their last stand against Rome. Take the cable car up (or hike the Snake Path at sunrise). Essential.
- Dead Sea: Float (you literally cannot sink) in the saltiest body of water on earth. Cover yourself in mineral-rich mud. It’s as weird and wonderful as it sounds.
The Galilee and Golan Heights (2 days)
- Tiberias: Gateway to the Sea of Galilee
- Safed (Tzfat): Ancient mystical city. Synagogues, artists, kabbalists.
- Golan Heights: Wineries, nature, volcanic landscapes, views of Syria
The Negev Desert (1-2 days)
- Ramon Crater (Makhtesh Ramon): A geological wonder. Hiking, stargazing, silence.
- Be’er Sheva: Capital of the Negev. Thursday morning Bedouin market.
Food
Israeli food deserves its own article (and gets several on this site). Essential experiences:
- Hummus: Not a side dish — a meal. Eaten with warm pita for breakfast. Abu Hassan in Jaffa. Hummus Lina in the Old City. Locals will argue about the best.
- Falafel: Fresh, hot, in a pita with salads and tahini. Available everywhere.
- Shakshuka: Eggs poached in spiced tomato sauce. The breakfast of champions.
- Sabich: Fried eggplant, hard-boiled egg, and salads in pita. Iraqi-Jewish street food perfection.
- Fresh produce: The tomatoes alone are worth the airfare.
- Bakeries: Jachnun (Yemenite slow-baked bread), burekas (flaky pastries), and challah on Fridays.
Practical Tips
Money
The currency is the Israeli New Shekel (NIS/ILS). Credit cards are accepted almost everywhere. ATMs are widely available. Tipping: 10-15% at restaurants (not always included), 10-15 NIS per bag for hotel bellhops, round up for taxis.
Weather
- Summer (June-September): Hot everywhere. Very hot in the desert (40°C/104°F+). Humid on the coast. Jerusalem is drier. Bring water everywhere.
- Winter (December-February): Mild on the coast. Cold and occasionally snowy in Jerusalem. The Negev is pleasant.
- Spring/Fall: Ideal. Warm, dry, beautiful light.
Safety
Israel is security-conscious. You’ll see soldiers with rifles on buses. Bags are checked at mall and restaurant entrances. This is normal. If you see an unattended bag, report it immediately — Israelis take this very seriously.
Bargaining
In the shuk (market), bargaining is expected and enjoyed. Start at about 60% of the asking price and work up. In shops with fixed prices, don’t bargain. In the Old City’s Arab market, always bargain.
Language
Hebrew and Arabic are official languages. English is widely understood. Useful Hebrew:
- Shalom — Hello/goodbye/peace
- Toda (raba) — Thank you (very much)
- Slicha — Excuse me/sorry
- Kama zeh oleh? — How much does this cost?
- Beseder — OK/fine
- Yalla — Let’s go (borrowed from Arabic; used constantly)
Cultural Notes
- Israelis are direct. What Americans perceive as rudeness is usually just efficiency. Don’t take it personally.
- Shabbat is sacred. In religious neighborhoods, don’t drive, play loud music, or use phones conspicuously.
- Cover up at holy sites. Shorts and tank tops won’t fly at the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, or mosques.
- Politics: Everyone has opinions. Conversations can get heated. Listen more than you talk.
The Emotional Part
No practical guide can prepare you for the emotional impact of your first visit. Standing at the Western Wall. Walking through Yad Vashem. Floating in the Dead Sea at sunrise. Hearing the call to prayer echo across the Old City. Watching Shabbat descend over Jerusalem, the whole city turning golden.
Israel is not a comfortable country. It is not a simple country. But it is a country that has the power to change something inside you — Jew or non-Jew, believer or skeptic.
Go. Be overwhelmed. Come back different.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Israel safe to visit?
Israel is generally safe for tourists, though the security situation can change rapidly. Most tourist areas — Jerusalem, Tel Aviv, the Dead Sea, the Galilee — are well-protected and accustomed to visitors. Check your government's travel advisories before booking. Use common sense: stay informed about current events, follow local guidance, and avoid border areas and areas of active conflict. Israelis are remarkably calm about security; take your cues from locals.
What happens on Shabbat in Israel?
Shabbat in Israel begins Friday afternoon (businesses close early, usually by 2-3 PM) and ends Saturday evening after dark. During Shabbat: most public transportation stops (except in Haifa and some shared taxis), most stores and restaurants close (except in non-Jewish areas and some parts of Tel Aviv), and observant neighborhoods become very quiet. Plan ahead — rent a car, arrange taxis, stock up on food, and know which restaurants stay open.
Do I need to speak Hebrew to get around Israel?
No. English is widely spoken in Israel, especially in tourist areas, hotels, and restaurants. Most Israelis study English in school from a young age, and signs in major cities are typically in Hebrew, Arabic, and English. Learning a few Hebrew phrases (shalom, toda/thank you, slicha/excuse me, kama zeh oleh/how much does this cost) will be appreciated and helpful, but you can navigate the country entirely in English.
Sources & Further Reading
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